What is important to remember when attempting to train a racehorse for a new job is the past training it has received. For many years, it has only known how to race. Patience and experience with horses is required when working with an ex-racer. Inexperienced handlers or riders should not attempt to retrain a racehorse. The combination of a novice rider or trainer with a high-strung animal taught only to run can produce dangerous situations for both people and horses.

Often, these horses will benefit from several months to a year of down time and relaxation before being placed into a new training program. Physically, the horse must adapt to a variety of changes. It is no longer being asked to run as fast as it can for as long as it can with a minimal weight upon its back. Jumping, hacks, and even pleasure riding require different muscles than racing over the flat. All horses should be allowed to adjust physically before they are pushed to achieve in new careers to ensure they remain sound. Retraining a racehorse also requires a mental adaptation, as well. Most new homes will not have the sort of structure or routine the horse experienced while racing. While these ex-racehorses did experience significant human interactions, they were not expected to carry riders for extended periods of time, which is another adjustment that must be considered when retraining.

There are many charities and organizations dedicated to taking in, caring for, and retraining ex-racers. These groups also work to promote racehorses and their suitability for various other disciplines in the equine world. The goal is to find the right horse for the right job, and eventually the right owner. These charities aim to train a racehorse so that it may continue to have a good, productive life even if life on the racecourse is over.

It is the racehorse trainers job to train a racehorse so it performs to the best of its ability at the races. To find out more about racehorse training visit http://www.jonjooneillracing.com]http://www.jonjooneillracing.com.

Animal Behaviorist

Many animal behaviorists work with pets. They offer dog training services and recommend solutions to decrease or eliminate bad behavior. This occupation actually requires one to get a great deal of formal education.

Bed Bug Detection Services

Bed bug detecting dogs are increasingly popular due to the growing number of bed bug infestations across the nation. Bed bug sniffing dogs are specially trained by experts to identify the scent of these annoying critters. They’re superior to humans in finding the odious bed bugs. Business owners work with their bed bug sniffing dog and then, if any bugs are found, let a pest extermination company eradicate the pests. Their handlers charge between $100 and $200 per hour. Insect extermination companies often hire people to work with their bed bug detection dogs.

Farrier

Farriers trim horses’ feet and put on horseshoes. Most farriers go to school to get training which can range from a two-week course to a one-year program. Farriers are trained to properly evaluate the shape and condition of the hoof. Most farriers travel to farms and stables and typically visit their clients every six weeks.

Specialized Dog Trainer

Specialized subfields within the field of dog training include the training of police dogs, drug and contraband dogs, guide dogs, search and rescue dogs, assistance dogs, and dogs working in movies and television shows.

Dog Massage Therapist

Dog massage therapists help alleviate pain and tension, increase flexibility and circulation, and improve the overall health and well-being of dogs. You can begin your career as an intern with an animal massage therapist. Dog massage therapist classes and seminars are also available. According to the Northwest School of Animal Massage, animal massage therapists are typically paid by the massage which can range from $50 to $120 each.

Pet Sitter

Pet sitters typically work part-time. They take care of pets while their owners are out of town. Occasionally they spend the night, but usually they visit the residence two or three times a day. Duties may include, walking, playing, feeding, medicating, and cleaning up after them.

Pet Photographer

Work opportunities in this field include dog shows, cat shows, magazines, calendars, newspapers, novelty items, and taking professional photographs for pet owners.

Horse Groomer

Groomers take care of horses and prepare them for shows or for races. Duties include feeding, cleaning stalls, brushing, and bathing. Some groomers exercise horses and may assist with breeding and foaling. Show horse groomers need to learn special skills such as braiding and harnessing. They will usually travel to competitions or shows.

Doggy Day Care Owner

These businesses can do well in highly populated areas. Day care owners and employees supervise the playtime of dogs, feed them, and also have the fun task of cleaning up after them!

Some of the common occupations that include work with dogs are as follows:

• Veterinarian
• Dog groomer
• Boarding kennel worker
• Dog trainer
• Dog walker
• Dog breeder
• Veterinary assistant
• Pet supply store clerk
• Shelter worker

And finally, here are some more unusual occupations for pet lovers:

• Dog fashion designer
• Pet party organizer
• Cat furniture manufacturer
• Breeder of fish, birds, or reptiles

If you love animals, working with pets and horses can make for a very fun and rewarding career!

Brian Jenkins, a member of the BrainTrack.com writing staff, contributes feature articles about many different career and education topics, including veterinary technician careers.

When a foal is born, he may have two nipper, (front), teeth. If he’s not born with them present, they should announce themselves within a week. Around the first birthday, he should have all the incisor or milk teeth. By two to two and a-half years of age horses have shed all their baby teeth and acquired their adult teeth. Around three years old, he should have his permanent nipper teeth. You should understand that nipper teeth are appropriately named. In his fourth year, he should be receiving his divider teeth, which sit on each side of his nipper teeth. At five years, he has all his teeth, and should not be using them for taste-testing you. He should have in all, forty teeth. From here on out his teeth will continue to change. Each tooth will change from a rectangular shape, to round, to eventually a triangular shape.

Around six years of age, the horse’s teeth get little pits in them that resemble cavities. As the horse ages, the central incisor pits disappear. This is around age seven. By the time a horse hits the ripe old age of eight, (in his prime actually), all the lower teeth have lost their pits, but, a new dent in the teeth, known as a dental star shows up in the lower center incisors. From age eleven on up, the teeth will begin to jut forward toward his lips with each passing year. With this, you will notice that his teeth will become more triangular.

Many horsemen do not know how to place age on a horse just by looking at his teeth. Some vets can’t tell either. Practice makes perfect when aging a horse. It is a wise choice to invest the time into learning all you can when it comes to horses. They can’t tell you what they’ve been through, how old they are, or what they know. You can tell a lot by looking them over really well. Have you ever looked at a horse’s temples or orbital sockets? Aside from standing there scratching your head and wondering can you really tell how old a horse is by their teeth, and you can look elsewhere. A peek at their temples can speak volumes as well. Most times, deep temples, right above his eyes is indicative of age. If you know someone who really has the ability to determine age by looking at a horse’s teeth, you should hang around him a lot, to learn yourself.

With age, the horse’s teeth do not get shorter as they do in humans. A horse’s teeth continue to grow as they age and wear down from chewing. So the length of a tooth will not be an accurate tool for measuring the age of your equine.

In the past horse traders have made attempts to alter a horse’s teeth to mimic the dental stars and divots in the teeth to make him appear younger than he really is. You can tell this has been done by looking for the white edge of enamel, which should be surrounding the real mark on his tooth. The best way to determine the age of your horse is to keep accurate records, or if it is a new purchase remember this: around ages six to twelve, the central incisors are round. Around ages eight to eighteen, they become more triangular. The lateral teeth are round or rectangular in shape around age six to thirteen. These teeth become more triangular between nine and nineteen years old. The little teeth on the corners are round around years seven to fourteen, and will become more triangular between ages nine and twenty. From there, the teeth will all become more triangular as he ages. There are books to be read on aging a horse by his teeth. If you have any serious doubts about what you are getting, it is imperative you contact a reliable vet to do a pre-purchase exam. Can you really tell how old a horse is by his teeth? You most certainly can.

An excellent book covering caring for your horse’s teeth can be accessed by >>>Clicking Here<<<

One of the most important concerns during the winter months is something that most people do not always think about. That is the amount of water intake a horse needs during the winter months. The winter months are often cold and dry and as a result the horse actually needs just as much, or even more water during this time than in the summer. In fact, most veterinarians would most likely say that this is the number one winter concern-the amount of water intake that a horse gets.

Besides a horse becoming dehydrated, not drinking enough liquid in winter months can also cause other problems. For example, a horse can end up with impaction colic if the horse does not drink enough water. Impaction colic is a malfunction of the intestinal area that results in a severe abdominal pain. This can be prevented as long as you can keep your horse wanting to drink water.

In order to keep a horse drinking its water like he or she should, you should make sure that the horse has plenty of clean, fresh water in a sanitized water basin. Furthermore, you should place the water in a sunny location. This will help keep the water warmer for a longer period of time. However, in the event that the water does freeze up you can break up the ice with a large hammer and then dispose of it in an area not close by horse traffic.

In addition to placing the water more towards the sun, you can also add a bucketful of hot tap water in order to make sure the water stays warm. Furthermore, you can scrub water buckets and keep them in a room to warm to room temperature before placing the buckets back in the stalls. If a horse knows there is warm water available, the horse usually will be more eager to drink this water than if it was cold.

Another idea for caring for your horse in the winter is to prepare it a nice hot homemade meal. One example of a warm meal that can be offered to horses at least once a week is the bran mash. This bran mash can be made with warm tap water right from the barn and then served directly to the horses. Horses will love this bran mash, which consists of bran sweet feed, chopped apples, sliced carrots, and molasses.

For a more specific recipe you can search for it online and you will find the recipe in most horse caring websites. Pedlar.com is an example of a place to find articles that have horse recipes such as this.

Another part of a horse’s diet should be salt, hay, and grain. These are all essential for the health of the horse in proper proportion. The benefit of hay is that it produces fiber that helps a horse’s gastrointestinal tract to work smoothly. Furthermore, the hay also produces heat, which can help keep a horse warm during the winter months.

Furthermore, a horse should have adequate shelter in the wintertime to help keep it warm. This shelter should be draft free and have a door approximately 12 feet wide so the horse or more than one horse can easily walk in and out of the shelter unit. Another technique to keeping this shelter warm is to close most of the doors and windows.

However, do not close all the windows of your horse’s shelter because the barn will get too stuffy and your horse could contract an upper respiratory disease or other sickness. Furthermore, the shelter needs ventilation so the horse can breathe. Also, you do not want to shut the doors too tight around the shelter area otherwise dust, mold, and other buildup could take place. Therefore, be careful to provide adequate airflow through the place where your horse is kept during the winter.

If you have more than one horse, make sure that the shelter has adequate space for all of them, and make sure the door is facing the south. Facing the shelter door to the south allows the horses to be warmed by the midday sun.

Another way to keep a horse warm either in his or her stall or when walking, it is to cover the horse with a large blanket or long coat. This will prevent freezing and help reduce the amount of exposed sweat into the air. The best material to use to cloth a horse in the wintertime would probably be wool.

Further Reading:

• The Everything Horse
• Complete Horse Care Manual

Most people give no thought to their horse’s teeth until they begin to lose weight. At that point desperation kicks in, and they try every supplement under the sun to try to boost their horse’s weight. When nothing else works, they call their vet, who suggests checking the horse’s teeth. Teeth? Horses have teeth?

As with anything else, proper care of your horse’s teeth will make life a lot better for you and for him in the long run. With age, a horse’s teeth will deteriorate or become uneven. Even a young horse could have sharp points on his teeth, which can make chewing difficult. It is imperative that you maintain an even chewing and biting surface on your horse’s teeth so his chewing is not compromised.

So how do you know if your trusty steed has any mouth disorders? Has he been eating as normally? Does food fall out of the sides of his mouth as he chews? Catching these signs and symptoms early, and treating them in a timely manner will help prevent premature tooth loss, allow for easier feeding and tooth replacement, and may lower the incidence of colic and impaction in your horse.

If your horse is losing weight, dropping food from the sides of his mouth, or is emitting a foul odor from his mouth, he may have an abscessed tooth. You will need to consult your vet immediately if you notice an odor.

It’s kind of hard to miss a golf or softball sized swelling on the side of your horse’s face. If you see something of this nature, you can almost bet your horse has an abscessed tooth. Your vet will have to make an accurate diagnosis and take the appropriate treatment measures.

How do poorly cared for teeth cause colic and impaction? This is part of the importance of dental care in horses. If a horse cannot properly chew his food, and is swallowing large amounts of improperly chewed food, it can get stuck in his intestines, which becomes a blockage, or impaction. When he cannot eliminate, he will be more prone to colic. Trust me, taking care of his teeth once or twice a year is by far the easier route.

Another sign your horse has poor teeth is when you notice large chunks of undigested food in his manure. Not all cases of poor teeth are attributed to abscessed teeth. Some of the problems with teeth go much deeper.

Dental disease is more common in horses than one would think. With dental disease, the horse may object to a bit being placed in his mouth, and may shake his head often when he is being ridden. In more advanced cases of dental disease, your horse may have broken or cracked teeth or an abscess, or all three afflictions. As in people, infected teeth are painful. These teeth are more sensitive to hot and cold; it is the same for your horse.

Diagnosing a dental problem includes a thorough examination of your horse’s mouth, and just as you would get at the dentist, your vet will test each tooth for soft spots and decay. Some vets will go so far as to x-ray your horse’s teeth. This is not uncommon anymore.

Preventive maintenance is essential. Routine yearly examinations by your vet or equine dentist should be part of every horse owner’s routine. For your protection it is especially important to make a dental exam part of any pre-purchase examination.

When your vet comes to your premises to do a dental exam, he may decide your horse needs to have his teeth floated. This simply involves rasping your horse’s teeth so that they are level and without sharp points. Some horses will tolerate this procedure without sedation, some will need to be sedated to complete, or even attempt such a procedure. It is a painless procedure, much like filing your fingernail with an emery board. Some horses require floating only once a year while many get by with a good rasping every two to three years. It’s up to you to make sure your horse is taken care of dentally.

An excellent book covering caring for your horse’s teeth can be accessed by >>Clicking Here<<

First thing you will need is a container, whether it is a five-gallon pail with a lid, or a small travel suitcase, be sure you mark it clearly as a first aid kit for easy recognition in the event of an emergency.

Among the items for your kit should be as follows:

• A first aid book for horses, (any bookstore will have one)
• Antiseptic ointment, (any brand will do)
• 4″ vetrap
• A tourniquet
• Alcohol prep pads
• Paper towels
• Iodine
• Saline (pharmacy grade)
• A thermometer
• Scissors
• Several pairs of latex examination gloves
• 10cc Syringes
• Hydrogen Peroxide
• Sterile Gauze Pads
• 4×8 or larger cold packs
• Polo Wraps

These items will run right around thirty dollars to purchase and get you set up with your first, first aid kit. Think of this in terms of calling your vet. Most vets charge a farm charge, and if you’re like most horse owners, your horse never gets hurt during normal business hours. It’s always seems to be after the vet has closed for regular office hours.

The products listed here are for your first aid kit, and are not the only things you can put in it. Feel free to add or remove items that you deem necessary. Creating a horse first aid kit-what goes inside can be challenging in itself. Everyone you will talk to will have a different opinion. Think of some of the events you have attended where a horse has lost a shoe, and could have used an Easy Boot. Or what about the time your stall neighbors horse got colic, but no one had Banamine? Remember the horse that tore his shoe off going around the ring, and ripped a chunk of hoof wall away from his hoof, and not a soul had a rasp to file the rough edge to prevent him from injuring himself on his own hoof? What good is a cold pack if you don’t have a way to keep it secured to your horse’s injured leg? Duct tape or electrical tape will do the trick, and will also help bandages stay in place. Flashlights are splendid inventions to see what may be stuck in your horse’s hoof in that dark, drab stall. Maybe you need to look under his belly, and the light doesn’t shine up. These are a few things to think about. You can never really add too much to your first aid kit. It is always better to be over indulgent, than to not have enough in times of crisis.

This is a good thing to get kids started on, too. You can take an article like this to your local 4-H club and pose the same question to them. When it comes to creating a horse first aid kit-what goes in it? Make it fun for them and educational at the same time. Do it in a scavenger hunt type way, hiding the goods, and as they find them, have them describe the items, and their use.

It is always best err on the side of caution when you’re around horses. When creating a horse first aid kit, what goes in it could be as important as what is not in it. If you have the gauze pads to cover a wound, and nothing to hold them onto the area, such as tape, bandages or vetrap, then the gauze won’t do you much good. If you can stand there and hold those bandages on, that’s great, but most times, you won’t have that luxury, as fate has it, you’ll be by yourself when disaster strikes.

If you still have questions regarding your first aid kit, it’s best to consult your vet. He or she can make recommendations and maybe even give you some more ideas on what would be practical for your kit.

For more information about the kit illustrated to the left, Click Here

Monty Roberts has a love of horses, and he sure has a story to tell. He grew up with an abusive father, and this abuse not only extended to him, but to horses as well. This abuse formed a strong impression on Monty when he was young, and as he grew older he started to formulate an opinion that there must be a better way to communicate with the horses that he loves so much.

This “better way” was to become a horse breaking and training technique which he calls “join-up”. For starters, you need a round pen, and an unbroken horse. The handler stands in the middle of the pen, and the horse is encouraged to run away from him/her, circling the pen in attempts to get away. As the horse runs away, the handler forms steady eye contact, and assumes a very authoritative and imposing stance. As time goes by, the handler will look for three specific signs that the horse wishes to communicate with the handler. These signs are:

The horse will gradually turn the ear that is closest to the handler towards him/her.

The horse will begin a process of chewing and licking.

As the horse runs around the pen he will move his head closer to the ground.

Once the handler has determined the horse wishes to communicate, he will turn his back on the horse and start to move away. At this point the horse will usually move closer to the handler, permitting the handler to touch him/her. The next step in the process is to saddle, bridle, mount, and ride…

The book offers more information than the “join-up” technique mind you. It takes us on a journey as we learn of Roberts’ learning stages, and the good and the bad that have brought him to where he is today. Some of the highlights are:

-The author’s successful childhood riding career

-The author’s encounters with his father

-The Thoroughbred racehorse facility that the author developed

-Meeting Queen Elizabeth II of England

-Using the join-up technique with wild deer

-His experience with mustang horses

-Three of his favorite horses: Brownie, Johnny Tivio, and Dually

If you love horses, and would love to learn of a very humane way to train and communicate with them, then this book is for you. Check it out, read it over, and let the information wrap around your mind.

If you have read this far you obviously love horses. We do as well. We invite you to visit our web site on Horse Jewelry. You might find the perfect gift for that fellow Horse Lover.

This habit is sometimes mistaken for wood chewing. Both activities involve biting on wood and causing damage to it. However, they are really different habits. With wood chewing, the horse simply nibbles on wood, typically to occupy itself and to meet its natural desire to chew. With cribbing, the horse does not chew on the wood but simply grabs it so that it can stretch its neck so that it can suck in air. Examination of the damaged wood will show the difference as in one case it will be nibbled away whereas in the other it will show signs of being firmly bitten and then pulled.

Over time, cribbing will wear down and damage the horse’s teeth. The pulling motion results in an abnormal muscle development in the neck, making it thicker. A number of other illnesses, such as colic, are associated with cribbing but the relationship of these illnesses is unknown (e.g. does the colic pain promote the habit, or does the cribbing air sucking cause the colic, or are both colic and cribbing simply more likely in horses which lack pasture time).

Ideally, one should prevent the development of the cribbing behavior by providing the horse with as natural and interesting environment as possible. Once a horse has cribbing, the situation is more difficult, but one can greatly reduce the frequency of cribbing by providing a mentally stimulating environment. The first step is to provide as much pasture time as possible. One should also make the feeding regime as natural as possible, consisting of pasture grass if possible and hay as a second choice; foods such as grains which can be quickly eaten with minimum chewing are the least desirable. In addition, many small feeds are preferable to a few large feeds, as this helps break up the day. Any other activities which provide interest, such as exercise and grooming, will make a positive contribution.

An interesting environment will normally prevent the development of cribbing, and help already cribbing horses to reduce the amount of cribbing. Unfortunately, once the habit is established, this in itself will seldom cure it completely. One needs to combine this action with treatment to physically prevent the horse from cribbing, in order to eventually break the habit.

A common treatment is the ‘cribbing strap’ which is a strap that fits around the neck with a metal plate underneath to making swelling the neck to suck air uncomfortable; this device is also known as a cribbing collar. One can also use a specially-designer muzzle which allows the horse to eat but prevents it grasping fence rails or other objects with its teeth. Putting a fencing wire (with electrical current) on top of fence rails will also keep the horse from cribbing on them. There are also a number of paints which are designed to have a foul taste which one can paint rails and other objects with to discourage cribbing on them (make sure that any product you use is veterinary approved). Some people find that anti-depressant medication helps. If none of the above techniques work, the final approach is surgical, consisting of cutting certain neck muscles and nerves and thereby preventing the cribbing activity.

One should do both activities, remove the cause of the behavior by providing more mental stimulation for the horse and also use one or more of the above techniques to discourage the behavior. Addressing the cause but not the behavior is normally only partly successful. Alternatively, stopping the behavior (e.g. with a cribbing strap) without fixing the root cause of intense boredom may simply result in the horse developing alternative behavioral problems.

Duber Stewart, owner of Horses For Sale wrote this article Horses Cribbing

Four Year Old. This is one of the most popular ages, since horses typically complete their basic training by age four and are immediately ready for riding. In addition, if you decide you want to train the horse to an advanced level, it is still young enough. Although a trained horse will be more expensive than a younger untrained one, this is offset by saving on the costs of training and associated stabling during this period.

5 to 7 Years Old. A trained horse of this age has all the advantages of a 4-year old. However, it will be more emotionally mature and calmer, and may be trained to a higher level as well. All of these factors make it easier to manage and more reliable than a younger horse, so it is more suitable for new riders and for children. However, as a horse gets older it becomes more difficult and consequently more expensive to train so one should ensure that the horse is fully trained before the end of this period.

Over 7 Years. Older horses are increasingly calm and dependable. Consequently, the older horse is great for children and new riders. They are also less expensive to buy as they are less popular. If the horse is not too old and has been well treated, it should still have many years of riding left. However, one would not want to purchase a horse which is too old for the number of years you intend to ride it.

3 year old. This is the age (depending on breed) when riding training usually starts. Consequently, you can enjoy the experience of training your horse rather than buying an already trained horse. However, if your main purpose is riding, you will likely prefer to purchase an older trained horse, saving yourself time and training fees.

Less than 3 years old. Watching a horse grow up can give immeasurable pleasure, something like watching young children mature. However, like young children, it can be difficult to predict how they will turn out physically and otherwise, so a foal is more of a gamble than a mature horse. Although foals are less expensive to buy than mature horses of the same quality, once one adds in the cost of stabling and training before it is ready to ride, they are usually more expensive in the end.

The preceding is a general summary and not applicable in all circumstances. For example, if you will be using the horse for racing or other competitions, the associated age restrictions need to be taken into account. Furthermore, breeds and individual horses age at different rates, as well as owners having different policies as to when and to what extent horses are trained prior to sale.

This article is by Duber Stewart, who writes for websites such as Horses for Sale.

Horses can communicate with each other beautifully, but sometimes people have a hard time understanding horse language. However, because the horse world and the human world often overlap, it is important and beneficial for people to make an effort to learn to talk with and listen to horses.

Horses communicate with gestures, body language, and nuance of motion that can communicate a vast array of emotions and thoughts. Horses use ears, tails, hooves and really every part of the body to communicate. When people take the time to truly understand how intelligent and sensitive a horse can be, the results can be rewarding to both horse and human.

Horses can use their ears to express a number of direct statements. Both ears pricked up straight and tense might mean, ?I?m excited,? while both ears twitching back and forth in opposite directions might mean, ?I?m nervous, but not too upset.? Any human working with horses should make the effort to learn the subtle movements and associated behaviors of their horses? ears.

A horse’s tail is extremely useful as a flyswatter. However, it can also tell you a lot about your horse’s frame of mind. If your horse has a relaxed tail, he is probably pretty content. He may also be bored or confused. If he is holding his tail upright, he may be suspicious or curious. Look at the context for clues as to the meaning. Know your horse well so that you can read his unique body language in every situation.

Horses can use their own footwork to indicate everything from nervous jitters to frustration to outrage. Obviously a horse that kicks is in a dangerous state of mind. They are using their feet to show extreme emotion, possibly fear or anger. They must be dealt with carefully, and humans must respect the size and strength of an animal that is trying to communicate dissatisfaction in such a physical way.

Horses have command of their whole bodies with which to communicate their internal state and their desires to other horses, and indeed, to humans paying attention. They are capable of expressing emotions we usually associate with people, such as intense happiness or territorial jealousy. Watch a horse’s head and neck motions as these are particularly telling regarding the horse’s feelings. If a horse bends or twists his abdomen, this can indicate he is perturbed or stimulated.

Humans and horses are capable of bonding with each other, and horses are quite able of expressing genuine devotion to those with which they have such a bond. It is because we and horses both belong to the mammal family, and both retain the characteristic tendency towards communicating our inner states, that we can have such a relationship. We people seem naturally wired to look for signs of communication in other species, no matter how subtle, and despite the non-verbal nature of such communication. And so some of us who interact with horses put energy into understanding them.

Horses have personalities as distinct as their human owners. Their intelligence is matched by their desire to please. Horses have incorporated humans into their world, and they regularly communicate as mutually understood beings in the same family, both horse and human.

What type of saddle is ideal for riding?

Western saddles are made with the comfort of the horse as well as the rider in mind. They are larger so that the weight is distributed over a larger area of the horse’s back. Made originally with the cattle drives in mind and the need for keeping the horse from tiring out too quickly, the western saddle is made of rawhide. There are other materials available today and you can find lighter weight saddles for sale. But the originals were made of leather and the underside was either sheepskin or wool.

There is also a difference between trail or pleasure and work or ranch saddles for sale on the market. Different tasks or uses require different balancing and component design such as horn shaping. Barrel saddles provide closer contact. English Saddles sit higher to give the rider better positioning than a western saddle would for that sort of riding.

The distinctions between the two main types of saddles for sale

The English saddle is lighter than the Western saddle and has steel stirrups. The cinch is elastic and is designed to allow the saddle to stay on the horse but still allow the horse enough give to breathe. There are no fenders to keep the straps from pinching your legs but wearing tall boots will take care of this problem.

On the other hand, Western saddles do come with protective fenders. Obviously, most cowboy sorts do not wear boots up to their knees, so it is good to have an extra level of shielding from impact or pinching in between the saddle and the horse’s back. Stirrups on western saddles also have leather wraps to add friction for a better hold on the slick bottom of a cowboy boot. Western saddles for sale will also have scurry trim which should not be warped if you are going to make a purchase.

Show Riding Vs. Pleasure Riding

A lot of English saddles are intended for lighter riding. An all purpose saddle works for show riding and pleasure riding. You will discover that most saddles for sale are a bit expensive, so it is a good idea to know what you will be using your saddle for before you buy one.

The difference in saddles for show or for pleasure is the way they are built. Western saddles are normally constructed on wooden trees. They are cover with fiberglass or a ralide, which is a synthetic polymer. They can be covered in rawhide. The lighter saddles are made of synthetic. The seat is covered with suede or split leather. The saddles are often carved with ornate embellishments as well as using silver to decorate.

English saddles are constructed on a steel-reinforced laminated tree or a synthetic tree. The covers are leather or synthetic and are not adorned as the Western saddles. The English saddles used to be stuffed with horse hair but today the stuffing is typically foam.

Browsing and buying saddles for sale

Saving money should definitely not be your top priority when selecting the perfect saddle. Saddles require a great deal of craftsmanship in order to last and ensure the greatest comfort for both horse and rider. An inexpensive saddle may turn out to cost more in replacement, repair and medical expenses than a quality saddle costs in the beginning.

Not only does the saddle have to fit correctly but the materials should be quality so they can last longer than a year or two. The stitching should remain intact and the fit on the horse should be another consideration. The saddle that does not fit well will make the horse’s back sore and this can be another cause of crankiness your horse will feel.

Whatever type of saddle you plan on purchasing, make sure it is of the best quality. It will last for many years. Riding will be a pleasure. You will be happier and your horse will be too.

Author: Jodie Daisy is happy to share information about saddles for sale with everyone online who has any inquiries regarding buying a new saddle.

The Thoroughbred breed of horse was to begin with bred in the United Kingdom due to the Englishmans hope to have a quick racehorse. There are 3 horses that set up the ancestry which are: Byerley Turk, Darley Arabian and Godolphin Arabian, named after their various owners, Thomas Darley, Lord Godolphin and Captain Robert Byerley. Each of these stallions were brought to the United Kingdom from the Mediterranean and the Middle East between 1670 and 1710. The result was a horse that could manage weight with sustained speeds over lengthy distances. Approximately 90%of current purebreds have come from Eclipse whose grandsire was Darley Arabian, who was never beaten in eighteen races.

This began a very selective breeding process which has been going on for nearly 250 years. Breeding the best stallions to the best mares to produce fast race horses, giving them superiority and excellence being established on the race track.

Around the turn of the 1700s, breeding records for Thoroughbreds were sparse and usually incomplete, and many times, they would not name a horse until the young horse had proven them self worthy. A gentleman named James Weatherby, through his own research and hard work and by the consolidation of his own privately kept pedigree records published the first volume of the General Stud Book. This was done in 1791. The first publication listed 387 mares, each of which could trace back to Eclipse. The General Studbook is still published in England by Weatherby and Sons, Secretaries to The English Jockey Club.

Many years later, as thoroughbred racing proliferated in North America the need for a pedigree registry for American Bred Thoroughbreds, similar to the General Stud Book became apparent. In 1873, the first American Stud Book was published by Colonel Sanders D. Bruce. This man spent almost a lifetime researching the pedigrees of American Thoroughbreds. He followed the pattern of the General Stud Book producing six volumes of the register until 1896 when the project was taken over by The Jockey Club. The integrity of the American Stud Book is the foundation on which all Thoroughbred racing in North America Depends.

The first publication of the American Stud Book by The Jockey Club had a foal crop of around 3,000. In 1986 in had grown to an astonish 51,000. Today The Jockey Club runs an elaborate new computer technology to meet the registration challenges posed by the gigantic number of annual registrations. The Jockey Club owns and operates one of the most sophisticated computer operations in the world today, with its database holding more than 1.8 million horses on a master pedigree file, with names that trace back to the 1800s. This is quite impressive genealogy. As well as bloodlines, this computer system also handles daily racing results of every Thoroughbred race in North America, as well as the ability to process electronically submitted pedigree and racing data from England, Ireland, France and other leading Thoroughbred countries.

Another descendant of Darley Arabian is Diomed; he won the first running of the Kentucky Derby in 1780. When he was twenty one years old he was brought to the United States where he produced the male line through his son, Sir Archie.

The most world renowned horse race is the Kentucky Derby, being the first race of the Triple Crown. The Preakness and The Belmont follow this historical racing event. Thoroughbreds are the horse of choice for track racing. Most thoroughbreds are born between January and April, but their official date of birth is January 1 of the current year. During their first year of growth, they are developing size and power with the youngster beginning his training as a yearling. The horse learns to accept a bridle and a saddle and soon after a rider on his back to break the horse and prepare him for the starting gate and the run around the track.

Buying a horse is an expensive affair. Obviously, you don’t want to make a decision that you are going to regret. Obviously your reasons for having a horse will be different from anyone else’s so choose one that meets your needs.

The idea of buying a horse has won you over but once you locate the horse that looks right for you, what would you need to do next? Give an honest assessment and decide if this horse will meet the specific needs you have in mind. So what is the purpose of you buying a horse? Are you planning to use this horse for riding? Some owners only keep their horse only for driving a cart or buggy.

The next thing to checkout is the temperament of these animals. Quiet, feisty, pushy, amenable, or grumpy: these are some of the different types of personality you will find so you need to be aware of how it will affect the purpose you want them for.

A pushy, demanding horse can be a nightmare if you do not possess enough patience to deal with it. If you plan to use your horse for simple trail rides, then there is simply no necessity to invest in expensive show horses. Never buy a young horse with the intent to train it if you do not have any prior experience handling horses in your life – they can be very demanding at times and require uncanny patience and skill to be able to train them effectively.

Horses can be gentle creatures but a young untrained animal can respond in unimaginable ways that can end in disaster. Always be patient when dealing with horses, certainly you don’t want o get injured or inflict injury to your horse simply form your own stupidity in not knowing what the right thing to do especially when an emergency occurs.

Take an experienced friend with you to check out horses as they will be less biased. It is much more preferable they help you assess the horse so you don’t wind up over horsed (buying a horse that is way too much for you to handle). Your experienced friend can also ride the horse for you to assess if it would work for you. Often, owners will be happy to show them riding the horse but be reluctant to allow anyone else saying there is no need – this should ring alarm bells.

Feeding a horse may appear easy, but you would be amazed if you knew about the ignorance level of various horse owners. It is a fact that there is no golden rule relevant involving the nutritional needs of a horse, as it mostly depends on the age, body weight and the level of activity, which the horse goes through. Grass is the most fundamental part of a horse diet. It is one of the MAJOR necessities for a properly functioning digestive system so when we speak of forage, we normally mean natural pasture and cut hay.

The quantum of food a big horse requires is close to 2 to two point five% of their body weight, so when a horse weighs a thousand pound, it would require 20 to 25 pounds of feed per day. Horses require feed, which is high in nutrition value and not high-fiber, food which tampers with its digestive system. In a perfect world, your horse should consume a minimum of 1 percent of his body size in hay/grass grass daily.

If your horse doesn’t do much work, they will do nicely on strictly forage, with no grain thrown in. On the other hand, horses which are active, or at the growing or breeding stage, need extra secondary feeds over and above the forage like grains or concentrate supplements. Thus, for optimizing growth and development of the animal, foraging should make up for at least half or more of the body weight, as part of his daily diet.

The food content and the quality of the grass are essential considerations when you are planning to give your horse a balanced diet. When you are aware of this, you can easily figure out the correct amounts of nutrients that would meet his specific requires. The best source and the least expensive one for summer feed is your grass fields and, in most cases good pasture by itself can provide all the nutrition requisites your horse needs. But how do you come to know how much pasture is right for your horse? Using a weight of 1000 to 1200 pounds, here is a rough guideline. This means that a mare and foal 1.75 to 2 acres – yearlings 1.5 to 2 acre and weanlings 0.5 to 1 acre.

Winter feed of course would be cut hay, and again, high quality if you can provide it. Ensure that the hay is leafy and green in colored and cut in a systematic way, free of dust, moulds weeds or stubble. There is plenty of proteins, vitamins and minerals contained in this feed.

Alfalfa hay is great for horses in a developing phase as it is protein enriched by there could be excessive calcium content in relation to phosphorus. Since abnormal calcium may not be good for growing horses, you could opt for a hay analysis, in case you are not too sure.

A curb bit is a leverage bit or a type of bit that multiplies the pressure applied by the rider. It is composed of a bit mouthpiece, a curb chain and shank. The purchase arm of the shank has one ring as well as the bottom of the lever arm of the shank. The curb bit can amplify rein pressure several times over, which makes it more severe than a basic snaffle bit.

The bit mouthpiece is the part of a curb bit where the curb chain, shanks and straps are attached. It rests on the bars of the mouth of the horse in the sensitive interdental space where there are no teeth. It acts on the bars, tongue and roof of the mouth of the horse.

The curb chain, which is the flat linked chain or strap, is attached on either side of the mouthpiece near the corners of the mouth. This places pressure from the shank to the chin groove. A curb chain is used to control the lever action of the curb bit. Also, it helps keep the bit steady and in place within the mouth and helps to hold the lip strap in place.

A bit shank is a cheekpiece of a curb bit, which adds leverage and place pressure on the poll through the crown piece of the bridle. This is where the bridle and the reins are attached. Shanks are typically made of metal and are designed straight or curved.

There are many types of curb bit, but the most common are the Weymouth curb, grazing bit and spade bit. Weymouth or Weymouth curb has a straight shank and a solid mouthpiece with a low port. Grazing bit is characterized by shanks that are turned back nearly 90 degrees. Spade bit has straight and highly decorated shanks and a mouthpiece with straight bar, a narrow port with cricket and a spoon.

The severity that a curb bit can cause is based on several variables, such as the length of the shank. The longer the shank, the more leverage is created and therefore the more severe the bit can be. Another variable that can add to the severity is the size of the port, which is the area in the middle of the mouthpiece that is usually slightly raised. The higher the port, the more severe is the bit.

The curb bit has to be fastened properly or else it will affect the severity of the curb bit. The action of the bit is dependent on the tightness of the curb chain. If the curb chain is tight, the horse will feel more pressure when the rider uses the rein. If the curb chain is loose, the horse will not feel the pressure on the chain area.

A Middle Eastern Stallion known as Byerlye Turk was used for breeding by his owner, an English captain. Byerlye Turk was bred with English mares and produced the Herod line of thoroughbreds. The descendants of this particular stallion and others like him that were brought to England were bred and crossbred to create a line of horses that were very strong but exceedingly fast. The horses had long, strong hind legs in order to produce the fastest speed, a wide girth which enabled a larger lung capacity. The shoulders of these horses are long and sloped to allow an even greater stride. Breeding these horses was an amazing accomplishment.

In today’s world thoroughbred breeding and racing is a massive business and the country that actually now has the most thoroughbreds is the United States of America. There were approximately 50,000 foals registered last year alone. All thoroughbred foals have the official birth date of the 1st January allocated to them even if they were born in June.

Their racing career usually begins at about two years of age but many do not race for long due to injuries. They are then either retired or sold. Thoroughbred horses are extremely strong willed and highly strung. After they have been retired there are not many other sports that they could compete in and owning one is not always easy either. They have a tendency to just love galloping and this rather limits the type of person who can own one.

Race horses, on the whole, tend to be thoroughbreds and they compete at speed on the flat. There are no jumps or obstacles in their way.

The training of racehorses usually takes place in large thoroughbred farms. The farms quite often carry out numerous operations which will include breeding and training. Usually when the horse attains a certain age it will be relocated from the breeding side of the farm and training will commence.

When the racehorse is about 18 months old its training programme usually begins. There are some trainers that will start earlier but not very often as the horses’ legs have not developed and fused properly until the horse reaches 4 years old. These horses are worth a lot of money from day one and neither owner nor trainer will want to take any risks.

Training and racing horses is a very organised and competitive business and therefore the horses are trained with an almost military precision. The owners investment will be high and there is no room for error. The young horses will be introduced to the lunge line first. This encourages them to respond to verbal commands and also learn to trust and respect their trainer.

Racehorses unlike other horses do not need to know how to delicately trot, canter or even stop. They are trained to run and one of the first things the trainer will be assessing is whether or not the horse is a sprinter or a distance runner.

This is the race of a life time for many. The Grand National is what all race horse owners and jockeys aspire to. It is a three day event (the festivities) with the race at the Aintree Racecourse, Liverpool, which is typically held on a Saturday in early April. The race has been being run since 1939, and the lucky winner that year was a horse by the name of Lottery.

The horses have been well trained for years to be entered into this race. The age for a horse to run in this race is 6 years and over. It is one of the most difficult races to run for both horse and jockey. There have been 62 horses that have lost their lives and one jockey who lost his life during the running of this race since 1939. There are 16 fences and two other jumps that the horse must jump.

There are drop fences where the horses land on the other side of the fence and it is lower than the side where they jumped from, so the horse is moving toward the fence and does not know about this until he is in the air. There are fences where the landing side is higher than on the side from which they take off, and this is a test of the horse’s abilities.

There is an area in the course about half way through that has a difficult jump with an immediate 90 degree turn in it. This tests the ability of the jockey and the horse to communicate and keep up pace with the course. Then comes the long race to the finish of this 4.5 mile track which is when you can see the wear on the horse.

The track is very intense for the horses and their riders. They both must be in top form for this race. Endurance is also a must as it is a long race at 4.5 miles with rigorous jumps and race track curves. You can often see the strain on the horses as they race to the finish, which is always exciting, and not always predictable.

There are great stories and tales about the Grand National that include some great winning horses like Red Rum who won 3 times in 1973, 1974, and 1977, he came in 2nd in 1995 and 1996. There have been many records set at this racetrack in Liverpool like the oldest winning horse at age 15, the youngest winning jockey at age 17, and fastest winning time at 8m 47.8s, Mr. Frisk in 1990. There are many great stats and stories about this race and track.

As you can imagine, along with the stories are the records that have been set at the Grand National, such as, the youngest winning jockey at age 17, the oldest winning horse at age 15, and fastest winning time at 8m 47.8s, Mr. Frisk in 1990. There are many great stats and stories about this race and track. The most winning horse was Red Rum who won 3 races in 1973, 1974, and 1977.

Of course what would a horse race be without the big purse for the horse owners and the jockey, and the bets placed by the spectators at the track or online. There are many who have a science to betting on their horse, and others who have no special formula, they just pick who they feel is lucky.

Riding a horse or pony out on the roads can be quite daunting, especially when you are not fully aware of how he is going to react to the other vehicles. Although you may not be sure on what his response will be towards the oncoming noisy tractor or that loud motorbike, there are a few ways you can prepare yourself and the horse for them.

Distracting your horse or pony and moving his attention and concentration away from the oncoming vehicles and onto you will help reduce the likelihood of him bolting in the middle of the road or dancing about in an uneasy manner.

When riding your horse or pony, pay attention to where his focus is. A lot of horses do get distracted from the ride and ignore commands being given to them which can result in them tripping up and spooking themselves simply from not concentrating.

To help break your horse or ponies concentration from his surroundings and distract his attention from the vehicles on the road you can occasionally tweak the reigns and gently squeeze with your legs to increase the pace and move him into a fast walk. This will help him remember the fact that you are there and giving commands. If he is paying too much attention to other horses and ponies in the fields, you can gently tap his muzzle with your crop.

It is amazing how fast horses and ponies learn if they are taught right. Horses are sensitive to your emotions and so it is vital that you do not get angry, frustrated or scared when teaching. When communicating with your horse when riding him on the roads, it is important to talk to him in a calm but firm pitch, which will demonstrate authority and make him listen to you rather than watching the vehicles.

A good way to also keep his attention is to select specific spots where you want him to step during the ride and insist on him stepping precisely where you want him. Riding with precision will help do this and help him concentrate more on you and not on his surroundings making it less likely for him to spook and bolt.

When teaching your horse or pony to become more familiar with traffic, it is recommended to also take him on short walks on the roads by leading him and not riding him. However, when you do this, always ensure that you use a bridle instead of a head collar, which will give you more control over him if he gets scared or bolts as a result of the oncoming traffic.

It is imperative to see how a new horse deals with traffic before buying him. When you pay visits to any horses for sale, make sure that you watch the owner walk and ride the horse on the roads with vehicles to see how he reacts. Being able to see how he reacts to vehicles on the road will allow you to make a decision on if he is comfortable if he needs more training.

The world is an often hectic and troublesome place to be at times. Work can get you down and bog your mind with all sorts of stresses. Relationships can work you up into a frenzy just to leave you hanging out there on a limb wondering where on Earth the time went and where you went. Sometimes we lose track of our lives and forget who were really are inside. There is not much in this world that we can do in order to get that back.

We need serenity and peace of mind in order to function optimally in our daily lives. It doesn’t make much sense to just sit and wait for the next thing to happen; instead, we need to try to calm ourselves and the sense of unease or worse that we experience. If we don’t try to calm ourselves, we have simply given up and given into the stress we experience, as well as the resulting disorientation and confusion we can also have. If that happens, even worse things can happen. Our work will suffer, as will our relationships.

What can we do to reconnect and get some peace of mind become even if just for a short while? Nature is one way to do this. To soothe yourself, simply take a walk in nature and experience all its beauty up close once again. We can again connect to miracles here, if we want to. What can be more uplifting than experiencing a miracle, and also have wildlife’s beautiful creatures along for the ride with us?

I find that horseback riding has a special feeling to it. There is a bit of joy and solace knowing that you are riding on top of a giant animal that has roamed free for hundreds of years. The horse is an animal that the American Indians have revered and lived in the presence of since they came into existence. Horses love, feel and work hard and they love the wild just as much as you do.

In the Rocky Mountains, you as the horseback rider can see scenery that you’ll only see in works of art otherwise. In the land, you’ll see wonder and miracles you can’t see anywhere else. Once you mount your trusty horse, you can ride slowly through the brush and gallop on open plains that themselves lead you to mountains that give no human any better vista. Your horse, too, will enjoy the ride as you go together through the brush. This is how you take in the Rocky Mountains’ scenery in the best way.

However, if you choose, you don’t have to just have a slow and easy ride. Gallop in from the plains as you go to the Rocky Mountains if you choose. If your horse is able, you can even do a bit of mountain climbing on easy trails so that you can see breathtaking views of the world around you. The scenery itself seems to go on forever. The American Indians say that this area is a place for living spirits. You’ll see what they mean and will feel it, too. The spirits of the ancient ancestors will give you a sense of peace, clarity and well being.

Prevention of horseback riding injuries can benefit the preservation of life by following safety details. For many horse enthusiasts, riding a horse in the woods or on mountain ridges in Colorado, is an great way to enjoy a day. Riding can be conducted at any pace, from slow and languid while experiencing the great outdoors to hard driven riding strong enough to burn those calories along the way. Whichever conditions you prefer, horseback riding safety details can aid in making your ride a pleasurable experience and most of all a safe one.

Horseback riding safety tips ensure that a day spent riding goes off without a hitch.

Ride a horse that matches your riding skills and if you will be on a road at all, be sure your horse is safe to ride in such areas.

Wear an approved ASTN helmet that is fastened it is highly advised by trainers and owner that these approved headgear should be worn the whole time you are on your ride.

Shoes or boots with a one inch heel is a good choice for stability.

The saddle should harness safety or break-away stirrups if the rider is inexperienced or fairly new to riding. They will prevent the rider’s foot from catching if they were to fall, thus being drug if the horse continues on.

Ride with a buddy is best and can be more fun and at least bring a cell phone or 2-way radio in case of emergency.

Advise someone before you leave for your ride of your agenda; as far as where you’ll be and when you’ll be back. At the minimum let someone know if you are not back by a certain time where they should look for you on your Colorado land.

It is a splendid plan to go the speed of your slowest rider or the one who is the least masterful because the faster you are going the less reaction time there is to correct a loss of balance, near fall or conditions you didn’t expect.

Extra caution needs to be taken during hunting season. The anxious hunter may react too quickly before actually getting a good visual on what is in his target.

Reflective riding clothes should be worn on a night ride on Colorado land, bring along a flashlight and stay on well marked trails.

Be sure to bring along any equipment you might need such as a pocket knife to pick something out of the horses hoof or a halter in case you need to tie up, you won’t want to use reins for that purpose.

Clothing that allows physical ease is a must and it should keep you safe by not be flowing out away from you as this could catch on something and pull you right down off the horse. Also be sure to get down off your horse every now and then and let your horse rest periodically.

In spite of the fact that there are probably many more tip that people could conjure up, even just these tips I have set out for you can assuredly help preserve your safety while enjoying your passions of horsemanship on your Colorado land.

Clicker training is a slang name which originally came from the scientific term operant conditioning. Formerly used to train aquatic mammals, it has become progressively more distinguished in training horses using positive reinforcement.

An animal learns a particular behavior or a task using the concept of operant conditioning in psychology where positive reinforcement is given after the action that the trainer wants the animal to repeat has been carried out successfully. However, the undesirable behavior or actions done by the animal aren’t rewarded and it will be ignored. Therefore the horse is more eager and quick to learn because they know rewards are given for the right actions.

Clicker training is such a great tool where you can embrace it with other training methods. What you have to do to start is get yourself a clicker, some treats, and a container for the rewards. Your horse is now on its way to follow your instructions once you have got them. Actually there are no given rules to follow when using the clicker training, but with the following guide below, you can use this method to your advantage.

The sound of the ‘click.’ is very important

Firstly, try to click your clicker for several times and then reward it with a treat every time your horse hears the sound. Why we are doing this? This is a process to let it know that the sound ‘click’ means that a reward is coming. Repeat the sequence of clicking followed by treating Later after about every 10-15 minutes. Some horses can easily get accustomed to the clicker training after three sequences, but some horses may need more sessions.

Pushing your horse too hard should be avoided

It will be better to train for more than 10-15 minutes, because it will be more effective. However, try to uphold short sessions that are broken into several days than having a long one in a day. That is the reason why you must know not every horse is the same in its readiness and ability to absorb new task.

A target should be used

Use a target for it to aim. Let this be the first task that it needs to accomplish when applying positive reinforcement. For example you can hang a plastic bottle and ask it to bump it using its head and reward it every time it does the right thing.

Nothing is more important than the right timing in clicker training. If the horse successfully bumps the target, click each time and then give it the reward it deserved. You have to repeat this process until the behavior is reinforced.

Proceed to the next level

Move on to the next step once it learns to bump the target correctly. Before giving a reward to your horse, let it pursue the target then head bob it. Your previous training is being tested here. It will tell whether you have properly conditioned it to respond to the ‘click.’ However, you have to always remember that you must be patient and not to conduct each session for too long . Not all horses will learn on the same speed so do not be disappointed.

Once you have completed this basic clicker training for your horse, you can proceed to a more advance training. The advantage is that you can employ this method to compliment your other trainings. This will make your teaching easier and your horse to learn.