The pet food industry achieves such a high profit margin because the ingredients they utilize in their products are nothing more than “rendered” dead animals, plus the detritus from the human food industry; animals deemed unfit for human consumption, or the 4-Ds: The Dead, The Dying, The Disabled, and The Diseased.

But the most appalling discovery revealed how dead and euthanized animals are picked up from kill shelters and veterinarians, piled into drums and transported to the rendering plants where, along with “road kill”, they are recycled to make pet “food”. Numerous investigations in both the US & Canada, disclosed how collars and flea collars, name-tags, and even plastic bags in which euthanized pets are wrapped, are not removed prior to their being thrown in the grinder. The average pet owner has no no knowledge of this.

In the case of euthanized animals, the drugs used to KILL these animals are also recycled back into the pet “food”.

The author of Not Fit For A Dog! illustrates the totally unethical practices of the pet food industry by spotlighting pets’ general early failing health, proliferation of cancers, kidney and liver problems, skin and allergy issues, and weight problems. Yet the pet food companies get away with making prime time commercials, assuring the public how the industry “cares” about the health and well-being of their pets.

In addition to exposing all that is so blatantly wrong in the pet food industry, the authors of Not Fit for a Dog! also provide recommendations covering exactly what you should be feeding your pet to ensure optimum health and happiness.

Warning: You may find the video below disturbing, but if you feed your pet commercial pet food, you need to watch it…

They have learned that, no matter how brief and unfriendly, a barking dog will occasionally cause a human to appear and yell at them. As they see it, any crumb of attention is better than none at all.

Some house dogs either bank immediately they are left to their own devices, when they are “triggered” by the phone or doorbell ringing, or when you bring a stranger into the house.

It is unreasonable and unkind to try to prevent a dog from barking completely. Barking and whining are their means of communication, both with you and their companions. Excessive and inappropriate barking is what you need to discourage, because this is the behavior problem.

Of course, in the long term, a good, consistent training regimen is much the best solution, but if you are the unfortunate owner of a barking dog already firmly set in its ways, there are a number of ultrasonic teaching aides on the market that you can purchase. These are humane devices that interrupt the barking pattern. They work by emitting an ultrasonic signal that is inaudible to human ears. This signal instantly gains the barking dog’s attention.

I do not recommend unkind “shock collars”, that work by inflicting pain. All training should be humane, and if you have a barking dog problem, applying pain will more than likely make the situation worse.

Listed below are a few of my favorite ultrasonic training devices:

1. Dazer II Ultrasonic Dog Deterrent –
   This is the device used by many postal carriers in conjunction to their mace spray. One wrote that he uses it continually as his “first line of defense”, and it has never let him down. In another recommendation, a lady tells how she and her family found it impossible to use their backyard because of a neighbor’s incessantly barking Schnauzers. She says three “Dazers”, and her family never heard another bark from the mutts (her words). This is my Number One recommendation to stop a barking dog. >>Click Here<< For more information

 



2. BarkOff –
   As seen on TV. I recommend this as a very affordable ultrasonic device for indoor situations. It also works in the car and you can take it with you when you walk your dog.
   My neighbor bought one and tells me she is delighted with it. Also, the company is currently advertising a “two for one special”, buy one and get the second BarkOff free. For just $10, plus shipping and handling, this is a great bargain. >>Click Here<< For more information

 

 


3. PetSafe Outdoor Ultrasonic Bark Deterrent –
   An attractive birdhouse, which is really a highly effective bark- deterrent in disguise. It is effective up to 50 feet from where it is installed and if you don’t have a barking dog yourself, attach it to your fence and use it to curb a neighbor’s barking dog. It will quell the excessive barking of any dog within range. >>Click Here<< For more information

 

 


 
I would like to stress again, that as far as your own dogs are concerned, good, gentle training should always be viewed as the best, long term solution. In the coming days, I will add a further post covering this training, but in the meanwhile, the devices I’ve listed above WILL work, and they will set your dog on the road to understanding that incessant, uncontrolled barking is not acceptable.

The skunk’s spray is not only especially foul smelling, but it is particularly difficult to eliminate from a dog’s coat. Your dog will smell of skunk odor for for a long time if you fail to act quickly. Even worse, if you allowed the dog inside, so will your house. You need to act fast!

First however, you should check to make sure your dog wasn’t injured by the skunk. If your dog is bleeding or appears to have been bitten, consult your vet at once because skunks may carry rabies. If vaccinated, your dog is safe from rabies, but, unfortunately you are not.

Some Important Facts:

• It can take up to two FULL WEEKS for the skunk smell to go away and humid or wet days can re-activate the skunk odor
• A pet groomer costs $40-$60 to remove skunk smell for small breeds that do not have thick hair
• Water and soap make skunk smell worse and spread the odor to other areas unaffected by the smell

A Solution:

Recently, whilst helping a neighbor whose Irish setter had just had a head on encounter with a skunk, I discovered an excellent ebook that can be bought online and downloaded instantly. It dispels many old wives tales about skunk smell removal and provides guidance on:

In short, the “Sprayed By A Skunk” ebook will show you a simple step-by-step solution that will Immediately remove the skunk odor from anything. It has nothing to do with tomato juice or tomato paste—they DON’T WORK!

There is an iron-clad 60-day, money back guarantee so you have absolutely nothing to loose except that awful skunk smell.

All the materials I’ve above listed can be purchased at your local home store. The large national stores such as Lowes or Home Depot will have everything you need to complete a project, even the carpet. You can also purchase carpet at carpet stores or carpet outlet stores, where you can get a good deal. Also, if you’ve had any re-carpeting done in your home in recent years, chances are the installers left behind all the offcuts. Now is a good time to haul them out and make great use of them, and as an added bonus, your new cat tree will exactly match your home’s decor!

The tools required are a hand saw, electric drill, stapler (electric is best), razor knife, hammer, philips screw driver, ruler, scissors, and pliers. That’s it, a hassle free solution which will curb your cat’s temptation of clawing your favorite sofa and cost you a fraction of what you will pay at your local pet store

Building your own cat furniture can be fun and to start off on the right foot, I suggest you do as I did and go to Best Cat Trees who offer an excellent selection of easy to follow, step-by-step plans on eleven different cat tree models, plus (at the time of writing) three bonus plans.

The illustration to the left shows the cat tree my husband and I built using this company’s “Cougar Den” plan. The illustration below shows a plan for a much smaller cat tree which they call “Cat Nap.” These are just two examples of the eleven plus plans available to you.

A bonus you may also want to consider is to use this company’s excellent step-by-step plans to create a home business for yourself. Build a selection of high quality cat trees and sell them through Craigslist, eBay, classified ads or at swap-meets. I knew a man recently who decided to built a radio-flyer cart for his grandson. He constructed it in his garage out of scrap wood and painted it bright red. People who saw it were impressed and asked him to build another for their children and grandchildren. Before he knew it he had a thriving little business going; his local news station featured him and he began receiving orders from all over the country.

You could achieve something similar building cat furniture!

Here’s a link to those plans again – Click Here

The first thing to do when preparing your cat to become accustomed to a leash is to make sure that you have the right kind of leash. A harness is the best thing to purchase as a collar will allow the cat to find a way to slip out of the leash. It is important to make sure that the harness is not too loose or too tight. Personally, I very much prefer what is called a “Cat Harness Vest”, because it offers far better protection from the cat wriggling out from it. In order to make sure that it fits properly, you can place two fingers between the cat and the harness. If you can not do this, it is probably too tight, and if you can fit more fingers, than the harness is too loose. It is also important to keep in mind that the tension from the harness should be able to pull from the chest and not the throat.

If you don’t want to use a harness for your cat, there are also jackets that are available to attach leashes to. The leash will usually be attached at the middle of the back, making it comfortable for the cat. The leash should also be fairly lightweight. This is because most cats are not that large and it will be hard for them to move quickly when walking.

After the right things have been purchased for the cat, you can leave them by the cat’s sleeping area for a couple of days. This allows the cat to get used to the leash and harness as a normal thing. They will be able to grow accustomed to the smell and the look of the harness and leash, making it more comfortable for them when the time comes to begin training them to walk.

The next thing to keep in mind when you are teaching your cat to walk is to use positive reinforcement when getting them used to the leash and harness. Positive reinforcement means that you use methods of encouragement when preparing your cat to walk. After about three or four days, you can put the harness on the cat for a little while. This will help them to get used to it. The best time to do this is right before their meal. You can then reward them with food for allowing you to put on the harness for a little while. This will allow the cat to react positively to the harness and leash.

You can start with only putting the harness on the cat, and allowing them to get used to the feel of it. The next step is to add the leash to the harness so that they get used to the feeling of having it attached to the harness. For the first few days, you can let them wander around the home with the leash and harness attached. By doing this, they will begin to feel like it is natural to have the materials attached to them.

Eventually, you will be able to take the other end of the leash, holding it loosely while you let them walk around the house. After the cat gets used to having the leash held onto at your end, you can teach them to follow you, instead of you following them. Usually, you can do this by simply pulling on the leash, which will redirect the way that the cat is walking in relation to the leash.

If the cat is an indoor cat, it is probably best to also slowly train them to get used to the outside sounds and smells at a slow pace. If not, it will make it difficult to control them when you are walking them for longer periods of time as they will be unsure of their surroundings and what the different things are in them.

The trick to teaching your cat to walk on a leash is to have patience. It is also important to remember to react to your cat with positive reinforcement as you train them to walk on the leash. By getting the cat used to the leash and harness first, then slowly training them how to walk, it will make it easier to train the cat and a better experience for both the cat and the owner. Training your cat to walk on a leash will eventually become a great way to spend time with your animal.

Here is a link to lots more information: Click Here

The first thing you need to do is decide what function your coop is going to have. Some chicken keepers use the coop only for roosting (where the chickens sleep at night). This means it can be relatively small and simple. Others use the coop for shelter and nesting/laying area throughout the day and night. A coop can have an attached, fenced-in yard or be free-standing.

So before you begin, take a good look at your property and think about what you want to accomplish with your chicken-keeping efforts. Consider the proximity of your neighbors, the type and number of predators (when you begin keeping chickens, you will find predators you never even knew existed), how many chickens you want to keep, and how much space you have available.

This is not a detailed guide by any means, but here are some easy steps you can take to make your own chicken coop.

• Start with a supporting structure. A dog kennel or crate is ideal. It will have a ready-made door, and its wire sides allow you to mount perches easily and plan for air circulation.
• If you are using the dog crate method, you will need to cover the crate with solid wood sides. Use pieces of plywood that are slightly larger than the crate’s sides by about 2 inches.
• To make a solid door from the wire dog crate door, you will need to drill holes in the plywood and mount it to the door using wire. Cut out a space for the sliding lock. You will also want to get some sort of padlock or clamp to secure the slide lock – predators like raccoons can quickly learn to open an unsecured slide lock.
• If you are not using the dog crate, you will need to build a supporting structure. This is best accomplished by making a frame out of 2x4s or 2x2s. Begin by laying out a square or rectangle on the ground using 2x4s; attach them at the corners. Then you can decide if you want to build an A-frame type of coop or a square one.
• Build the frame upward, attaching vertical pieces to each corner and in the middle of three of the sides. Slant these vertical pieces if you are doing an A-frame. Leave one side open so you can construct a door. Then cover this frame with a combination of plywood or hardware cloth/chicken wire.
• Insulation is something you might want to consider if you live in a very cold climate. If you insulate, you will need to make double walls with the insulation between them.
• The kind of door you make is important. It can be any size or shape you choose as long as the chickens can get in and out easily during the day and it can be locked securely at dark. Consider building a door that locks at the top and has hinges at the bottom so it can double as a ramp when open.
• The roof is also important. If you are using the dog crate structure, your roof will be flat. A-frames, of course, have sloped roofs. Either way, an inexpensive way to make the roof water-resistant is to cover it with plywood followed by roofing tiles.

Build A Chicken Coop Plans will give you all the information you need to make this possible >>Click Here<<
This report is packed full of useful information for anyone considering ‘going green’ and keeping their own backyard chickens. Get your copy now!

First of all, look at your budget. If money is not an issue, your best bet would be to hire a pest control company to come and administer chemical remedies to both the inside and outside of your home. One of the best reasons to do this would be because the pest control company has access to chemicals that the normal person off the streets may not be privy to. However, if you are watching your pocketbook, it is definitely possible to control your flea population on your own. You just have to work at it.

There are a variety of methods to treat your yard. However, before you head to your nearest home improvement center or pet store for flea treatments, make sure your lay the ground work for your flea treatment “game plan.” Mowing your grass is the first step. You also need to weed eat your lawn, getting rid of weeds growing through fence lines, cracks in the sidewalk and around lawn items like playground equipment and furniture.

Step two of your flea treatment “game plan” is ensuring that your yard is free of any unwanted visitors like stray cats and dogs or any wild animals like skunks, raccoons, rats and mice. All of these animals carry fleas and other critters in their fur. Check your fencing to ensure there are no gaps where a wild animal or stray can squeeze into. Cover all your trash cans and make sure that industrious raccoons cannot open them. By taking steps to keep these strays and wild animals out, you are greatly reducing your chances of a flea infestation once you chemically treat your yard.

Another action to take in your “game plan” is to remove or at least contain any debris on your property. For instance, perhaps you have a trash pile somewhere. By getting rid of it or at least containing it, you can ensure that fleas will not continue to call that pile home. Perhaps you have some overgrown flower beds or gardens. If you are serious about flea treatments for your yard, you will also clean these areas as well or get rid of them all together.

Once you have prepared your yard, the next step in the flea treatment “game plan” is to purchase the chemicals. Both your pet stores and home improvement stores have experienced personnel to help you with your selections. The most popular treatment comes in a granule form. You would cover your yard and other outside areas with these granules, ensuring good coverage. Afterwards, you would water your outside areas to activate the granules and allow for greater seepage into the ground.

Another widely used method is to purchase a concentrated liquid flea treatment chemical. You would follow the directions of diluting it with water and administer the chemical through a large sprayer. This method is especially helpful for those areas where your cat might hang out the most like a tree, bush or cat bed. Related to this is another flea treatment concentrated liquid that hooks up to your garden hose for easy application and broadcasting.

How you treat for fleas outside your home depends on several things: the size of your yard, where you live, how long you can keep children and animals out of the yard and the foot traffic you might have (i.e. kids playing, visiting animals). Unfortunately, you might have to apply treatments multiple times before you notice any discernable differences in the flea population. Also, you might have to combine treatments. For instance, you might spread the granules throughout your yard, but instead of just watering it with your water sprinkler; you would water it down with the chemicals that attach to your garden hose. All of these methods or a combination of them should help keep the fleas down to a minimum so you and your cat can enjoy a scratch-free existence.

Bats are the primary predators of night-flying insects, and are essential for maintaining healthy ecosystems. But most important, as consumers of huge numbers of pests, they rank high among mankind’s most valuable allies. A single little brown bat can catch hundreds of mosquito-sized insects in an hour, while an average sized colony of big brown bats can protect local farmers from the costly attacks of 18 million root-worms and similar farm pests each and every summer. Many insects can hear bats up to 100 feet away and will avoid those areas occupied by bats.

Many people have serious misconceptions about bats:

• Bats are not blind. Most bats can see as well as humans
• Bats are not flying mice; they are not even remotely related to rodents
• Bats are not dirty, in fact like cats, bats spend an enormous amount of time grooming their fur, keeping it soft and silky
• Bats are not ugly. Most bats have very cute faces, some even resemble deer, rabbits, and little Chihuahuas
• Bats don’t get caught in peoples’ hair
• Bats do not chew into the attic into your house
• Bats don’t ‘carry’ rabies, however, they are capable of catching the disease just like any other mammal
• Bats don’t interfere with backyard birds. Birds and bats do not compete for food or space
• Bats will not be disturbed by pets or children

So, why not help these amazing creatures by providing bats with a nice bat house at your location?

A word of warning though, not all bat houses are built correctly. Short, squat houses tend not to attract bats, while longer, wider houses generally work very well.

There are a number of websites offering excellent bat house designs for do-it-yourselfers, but if you are like me, I prefer to buy something already made that can be installed immediately, otherwise the building project is likely to get delayed by other tasks.

I have researched a lot of online retailers and without a doubt, the largest selection is offered by Amazon. They have a huge variety, plus one easy to assemble kit. Click Here for more information.

Mounting Your Bat House

Bat houses should be mounted on buildings or poles. Houses mounted on trees or metal siding are seldom used. Wood, brick or stone buildings with proper solar exposure are excellent choices, and houses mounted under eaves with 6-10 hours of sun exposure, depending on your region, are often successful. Single-chamber houses work best when mounted on buildings.

Mounting two bat houses back-to-back on poles (with one facing north and the other south) is ideal. Place houses 3/4-inch apart and cover both with a galvanized metal roof to protect the center roosting space from rain. All bat houses should be mounted at least 12 feet above ground, and 15 to 20 feet is better. Bat houses should not be lit by bright lights.

Should I paint my bat house?

While it is not necessary to paint a bat house, doing so can often help in regulating the temperature inside the house. Bat houses in warmer areas, such as the southern United States, may benefit from light colored paint. Cooler areas, such as the northern U. S. and Canada, may benefit from a darker color to help absorb more warmth from the sun. Do not paint inside the house, as the bats need a rough natural surface to hang from when they are roosting during the day.

Protection From Predators

Houses mounted on the sides of buildings or on metal poles provide the best protection from predators. Metal predator guards may be helpful, especially on wooden poles. Bats may find bat houses more quickly if they are located along forest or water edges where bats tend to fly. However, they should be placed at least 20 to 25 feet from the nearest tree branches, wires or other potential perches for aerial predators.

Avoiding Wasps

Wasps can be a problem before bats fully occupy a house. Use of 3/4-inch roosting spaces reduces the risk of wasps. If nests accumulate, they should be removed in late winter or early spring before either wasps or bats return. Open-bottom houses greatly reduce problems with birds, mice, squirrels or parasites, and guano does not accumulate inside.

When should I put up my bat house?

Bat houses can be installed at any time of the year, but they are more likely to be used during their first summer if installed before the bats return in spring. If you are evicting a colony of bats from a building, a box should be mounted several weeks prior to the eviction.

Attracting Bats

Bats have to find new roosts on their own and putting up a bat house is the first step toward attracting them. Bats investigate new roosting opportunities while foraging at night, and they are expert at detecting crevices, cracks, nooks and crannies that offer shelter from the elements and predators. Bat houses installed on buildings or poles are easier for bats to locate, have greater occupancy rates and are occupied two and a half times faster than those mounted on trees.

Unlike domestic animals, bats are wild and free-ranging. Bats are a protected species and are considered public domain, which means that it is illegal to own, sell, or purchase bats. Catching and relocating bats to new areas is, in any case, highly unlikely to succeed. Bats have strong homing instincts, and once released into a bat house, will attempt to return to their former home area. Consequently, placing bats in a bat house is usually futile and is not recommended. If a bat house remains unoccupied after two full years, consider repositioning of modifying the house.

I put up a bat house, but still do not have any bats. What can I do?

Attracting a colony can take some time, and many different factors are involved in the process. The first consideration is the location of the house. Is it up high enough? Is it close enough to water? Are there adequate food sources nearby? The second consideration is temperature inside the house. If the average temperature is too hot or too cold or is inconsistent, bat colonies may not stay. By limiting or increasing the amount of sunlight a house receives in order to maintain a consistent warm temperature. Other factors that affect bat house occupation include the use of pesticides nearby, human activity, and lack of vegetation.

When do bats hibernate?

In most of North America, bats hibernate from late Fall until early Spring. They often seek out caves and abandoned mines, and will migrate from their current homes (buildings, bat houses, etc.) to warmer, more secure places. Bats in warmer climates, such as the southern United States, do not hibernate. Instead, they go into a state of torpor if outside temperatures approach 32 degrees Fahrenheit. Torpor is a state of inactivity in which the bats stay in their day roosts for extended periods of time to conserve energy until temperatures begin to rise.

Put Up a Bat House Pup Catcher

Maternity colonies that occupy bat houses sometimes encounter problems during the summer months. Baby bats need very warm temperatures in order to maintain their growth rate, however, bat houses occasionally overheat during the summer months, causing both pups and mother bats to fall out. Oftentimes, these bats in a weakened state from heat exhaustion and consequently die. The added warmth of the summer, coupled with the fact that the population in a bat house will double as the young are born and growing, can result in disastrous consequences for the colony.

These bats can be helped by installing a net below the bat house that enables the bats to grab on if they are falling and allow them to climb back to the house. When temperatures are extreme, the bats may also be able to move onto the net to cool or receive for more ventilation.

Please note that grounded bats should never be rescued with bare hands.

Materials Needed:

• 24″ length of nylon window screen or plastic mesh
• Two small lengths of scrap wood
• Staple gun and staples
• Zip ties
• Screws

The pup catcher must extend at least 24 inches below the opening of the bat house in order to prevent interference with bats exiting and entering the bat house. Cut the net so that it is the same width of your bat house and at least 24″ long. Cut two sections of wood the same width as your bat house. Staple one end of the length of screen to one of wood pieces (#1).

Create a pouch in the opposite end of the net by folding up a four inch section and using the using zip ties to hold the ends in place. Staple the back of the pouch to the second wood piece (#2). See close of up pouch below.

Use screws to mount both sections of wood to the pole or other surface on which the bat house is mounted.

Note: If nylon screen is used, guano may collect in the pouch requiring it to be gently hosed or cleaned out. The plastic mesh recommended above has holes large enough to allow most guano pellets to fall through or be naturally washed out with rain. The plastic mesh is also UV resistant.
(Special thanks to Stephanie Ann for providing the above photos.)

There are a number of propitiatory flea treatment brands on the market, but I like to follow my veterinarian’s choice and he uses Frontline Flea Treatment. A couple of years ago we had a tiny, abandoned kitten turn up in our front yard. Her tail had been torn almost clean off her body—the wound it created was alive with maggots—and she was covered with fleas and tics.

My vet treated her with Frontline and told me that Frontline kills 100% of fleas within 12 hours of application, while ticks will die within 48 hours of contact with a treated pet. Each application lasts to protect your pet for a full month.

He sold me a pack of three treatments costing well over $50, but by the time these had run out I had already found that Amazon sells exactly the same product at a 42% savings. On his recommendation, I also switched my two Dalmatians from Advantix to Frontline. In his opinion Frontline flea protection lasts longer.

Frontline Features

• #1 veterinarian-recommended flea and tick protection
• Plus breaks the flea and tick life cycles to deliver continuous protection to you and your pet
• Proven protection. FRONTLINE Plus killed 100% of fleas within 12 hours of application
• Long lasting: continues to kill fleas and ticks all month long
• Kills all life stages of 4 major tick species
• Waterproof: effective even after swimming, bathing and grooming
• Approved for use on puppies and kittens 8 weeks of age and older and on breeding, pregnant or lactating cats and dogs

What Others Are Saying

Frontline is recommended as the best flea treatment by more veterinarians than any other brand. It also receives rave reviews from pet owners all over the internet with an average of 4.5 out of 5 from reviewers on Amazon.

Where Can Your Buy Frontline Flea Treatment?

You can buy Frontline from Amazon. I have researched prices extensively all over the internet and at the moment they do have the best deal. Most purchases from Amazon also mean that you probably won’t be charged any sales tax. Click here to view on Amazon

They won’t be big, what I term “fat-cat” charities that operate out of fancy buildings and pay their CEO’s exorbitant salaries. Take a look at my first choice the Pet Adoption Fund. They are a small organization, located in Canoga Park, California. They are an all volunteer organization with a 501 (c) status and rely solely on donations to keep operating.

There are thousands of little, no-kill pet rescue charities struggling to keep their doors open all over North America and I would welcome your suggestions. Please leave a comment at the bottom of this post telling me about a charity you would like to see added to the list.

Incidentally, if you are reading this and live in the San Fernando Valley, the Pet Adoption Fund is desperately in need of volunteers who will foster kittens, puppies, or timid dogs. If you’ve never been a foster parent…it is the most rewarding experience ever. They are also in need of volunteers over the age of 18 to walk their dogs of all sizes. If you are interested, please email Click here to send them an email

That’s precisely the predicament I faced when, after much research, I decided to take the plunge and put my two Dalmatians on a raw food diet. I already knew that this type of diet was much the best for my doggy family, but I was still somewhat apprehensive about switching them for fear of a reaction after years of eating pre-cooked foods.

Because of this, Maggie Rhines’ Going Rawr! Dog Lover’s Compendium was a real life saver for me. Her book went into enormous detail when it came to the issue of food safety. From learning how to buy fresh to food handling; from preparation and serving to how much to prepare; from what to prepare to how to transition adult dogs, and how to wean pups… the list goes on and on!

If you’re in any way considering putting your dog on the Raw Dog Food Diet, I recommend that you don’t do anything before reading this book. It will help you save money, save time and more importantly, it will give you the confidence to start your babies on this healthy diet.

You can get much more information on Maggie Rhines’ book by clicking >>Here<<

I have used this product for numerous years. It was very first recommended by my vet for my Dalmatian that was 12 at the time and she lived to be 17½. This product helped her enormously and I saw results in just two or three weeks. About six years ago I adopted a second Dalmatian that had been badly neglected and mistreated and her joints were in extremely poor condition. Again, my veterinarian suggested Nutramax Cosequin DS and told me he considered it to be the greatest product of its kind bar none. He explained that the ingredients are absorbed into the body at a a much greater percentage than inferior pills sold in pet stores.

What You Get …

• #1 Veterinarian Recommended Brand
• Original Researched Brand
• Double Strength Chewable Tablets contain 500 mg of glucosamine and 400 mg of chondroitin
• Absolutely no reported side effects

Cosequin DS certainly isn’t cheap, especially if purchased through a vet, but I quickly discovered that Amazon sells the identical product, manufactured by Nutramax, and I was able to save almost 20% on what I paid my vet. Amazon also offers Free Supersaver Shipping (be sure to select it) AND there’s no sales tax.

Cosequin plays an important role in maintaining optimal joint function. Healthy articular (joint) cartilage is crucial to joint utility. Cosequin helps support cartilage production and protect existing cartilage from breakdown. Healthy cartilage provides cushioning which helps protect a pet’s joints while exercising.

Cosequin is the only glucosamine/chondroitin sulfate supplement that has been shown safe, effective, and bioavailable in peer-reviewed, published, controlled, U.S. veterinary studies. Cosequin is manufactured following standards similar to those practiced by the pharmaceutical industry.

What Others Are Saying:

Nutramax Cosequin DS receives rave reviews from customers throughout the Internet with an average of 5 out of 5 from reviewers on Amazon and the Nutramax site itself.

• There was a marked difference in our lab’s activity level within the first two weeks. Currently, he plays runs, and jumps with no pain. This product worked wonders for our dog.
• …. much more like his old self. running and playing with the younder one. (and us) I recommend.
• My dog thinks of them as treats and gobbles them right down so for anyone else if giving your dog a pill is a problem these should go right down!
• My dog’s veterinarian trusts this brand and that is enough for me to trust it too.

The best place for many, many more reviews from people who actually use Nutramax Cosequin is Amazon

Any Complaints?

None that I was able to find and I spent an entire morning scouring the Internet before writing this review.

Where Can You Buy Nutramax Cosequin DS?

You can buy this product from Amazon. At the moment they include free shipping and when I have discovered when comparing prices with other online merchants, Amazon do currently have >>The Best Deal<<

Nutramax Cosequin is recommended and dispensed by many thousands of veterinarians. I highly recommend it too!

A good, high quality memory foam, orthopedic dog bed will provide years of comfort and support, in fact, with normal use, the better ones are guaranteed to last for 10+ years.

Over the years, I have enjoyed the companionship of several beloved dogs who lived well beyond their expected years. One such dog was Tansy, who remained with me well into her eighteenth year. She adored her Memory Foam Orthopedic Dog Bed, topped off with a big, fluffy blanket and she and her younger companion would snuggle together in complete comfort.

Dogs tend to select couches, chairs, or beds as a place to rest or sleep. They prefer the comfort and warmth these items offer compared to a hard floor. Dog beds provide the same comfort benefits and they keep pets off furniture—an important consideration for many pet owners who prefer to keep their furniture free from pet hair. A bed introduced at an early age, reinforced with consistent training, will keep your pet off your furniture for his or her entire life.

To determine the size of bed that’s right for your dog, measure your pet while it is lying down in its normal sleeping position and then add 7—10 inches.

Don’t skimp on the quality of the Memory Foam Pet Bed you purchase. The higher density the foam, the more expensive, but as I pointed out earlier, the best beds and covers are guaranteed for at least ten years. Beds made of lower density foam won’t last anything like as long.

• Get Exactly the Same Memory Foam Mattress At 62% Off From Amazon.

• Cat deterrent safely and effectively repels unwanted cats
• 2-second ultrasonic alarm when motion detector senses motion
• Not audible to humans; covers 330 square feet; requires 9-volt battery
• Weatherproof and can be left outdoors in all conditions
• Measures approximately 8 by 3 by 18 inches

Product Description
Are you tired of picking up after your neighbour’s cats? Of having your fish plucked right out of your pond? Of having messy paw prints all over your freshly washed car? Let the CatStop solve your problems! CatStop’s built-in motion sensor catches cats in the act, and a burst of ultrasonic sound frightens them away. You and your neighbors can’t hear it, but cats detest it. CatStop keeps unwanted cats out of your flowers, garden, yard or pond. You’ll soon be enjoying the sweet smell of flowers instead of the smell left behind by the neighbourhood cats!

Contech CatStop Ultrasonic Outdoor Cat Deterrent

• Safely and effectively trains your pets to stay away from certain areas
• Responds to your pet¿s touch with harmless low-power 3-second static pulse
• Suitable for cats and dogs of all sizes
• Runs up to 6 months or 10,000 activations on single 9-volt battery (sold separately)
• Measures 48 x 20 inches; 2-year limited warranty

Product Description
Electronic mat automatically trains pets to stay off of or away from any area in your home

ScatMat 48-by-20-Inch Electronic Pet Training Mat, Large

Fake ‘green’ products often produce residues that are damaging to the environment and wildlife, but I recommend Green Doggie Bags because they are the real deal; nothing fake. In fact Green Doggie Bags transform your good behavior into a positive environmental result. Surely that has to be good!

All Biodegradable Products are NOT Equal

“Biodegradable” is a term loosely used by many companies trick you into thinking their products are “Green”. Most of the time they only mean compostable. The vast majority of Americans don’t have composts in their back yards and there are under 20 municipal facilities in America with the capabilities to compost.

This means that many so called “biodegradable” products actually never biodegrade because they last thousands of years in landfills with conventional plastics.

Green Doggie Bags are completely different! Their products are made with a new generation of bioadditives that break our bag down to their natural components, leaving no harmful chemicals behind.

Cornstarch and oxy-degradable bags are sensitive to heat, moisture, and have expiration dates. This means these products will deteriorate on the ‘shelf’. Green Doggie Bags have no expiration dates which means they will not perish on your ‘shelf’

You can safely recycle their bags with conventional plastics, something you cannot do with ‘so-called’ “biodegradable and compostable” products. So don’t worry about special care, these act and feel just like regular plastic bags, but they won’t be in our landfills 1,000 years from now!

Click the link below to do your bit to help the planet too!

Nothing could be further from the truth and that’s a fact. I have been training puppies and dogs for many years and all my methods involve positive reinforcement, kindness and gentle treatment. I would never recommend cruelty as a training method, in fact anyone who knows me will vouch for the fact that I’m a complete softie as far as dogs and animals in general are concerned.

When used correctly, a crate is a great training tool. Read that again—when used correctly! A crate should NEVER be used as a prison. It should be used as somewhere to secure the pup or dog during periods when it cannot be supervised. Your dog will very quickly recognize it as his private haven where he can cuddle down in the cozy blanket you provide to rest and be safe and secure.

Even during periods when the pup isn’t deliberately confined to the crate, he will very often go inside voluntarily to lie down. It’s important to always leave the crate door open when the dog is outside so that he has the option to take a time out in his own, private space.

If you have children, it should be a rule that they NEVER disturb the dog when he has chosen to retire to his crate.

In the beginning, try to engage in a period of play or exercise before a necessary spell in the crate. A tired pup is a good pup and he will happily snuggle down for a sleep. Similarly, last thing at night always spend some time playing, then take him outside to pee before settling him down in his crate. For more details on a specific schedule, take a look at the following: http://4petsonline.com/house-training-a-dog/

In addition to a cozy bed, toss in a couple of his chewy toys and a water bowl—preferably one that attaches to the crate side; this will prevent spills. Place the crate somewhere close to the family so that he never feels shut away on his own. At night move the crate into your bedroom so that you can hear him if he wakes and needs to be taken outside.

On toilet trips, always pick up a young puppy and carry him to his designated area in the yard. Most “accidents” occur between the crate and the back door so this is an easy method of prevention.

Crates come in all sizes: ideally you should choose one that has plenty of room to accommodate your puppy or dog, but it’s not so big it will allow the dog to use one end as a bathroom. If you follow my training methods you won’t need to invest in several crates that keep pace with him as he grows. One should be sufficient.

If you want to buy a crate I highly recommend you purchase online through Amazon. Currently they are on sale with over 75% off some models. Just click the link below.

Recommended Dog Crates On Amazon